Pre-Sample Checklist: 15 Details to Verify First

Start With the Tech Pack and Documentation

Before the factory touches the fabric, confirm the tech pack is complete and consistent. A missing field in the documentation creates a gap that the factory may fill with its own assumption. That assumption often becomes the root cause of a failed sample.

Review the style name, size range, and target market. Confirm the fabric composition and weight match the spec. Check the color codes for both main fabric and trims. If the tech pack references a specific stitch type, verify the factory understands it.

A common failure is a mismatch between the artwork and the tech pack notes. If the artwork shows a contrast topstitch but the notes say single needle, the factory may follow the visual. Resolve every conflict in writing before the sample build begins.

Confirm Fabric, Trim, and Component Lists

The sample is only as good as the material it is built from. Verify the fabric lot, composition, hand feel, and shrinkage data. If the style uses a stretch knit, confirm the recovery rate. For woven styles, check the GSM and the direction of the nap.

List every trim. Buttons, zippers, hooks, loops, and labels all need a spec. If the sample uses a different zipper than the production plan, the fit may change. A longer pull tab can alter the closure feel. A different button shank can change the drape of a placket.

Red flag: The factory uses a substitute material without notification. Even if the substitute looks similar, it may behave differently in production. If a substitute is acceptable, document the change and approve it in writing.

Audit Pattern, Grading, and Fit Points

The pattern is the blueprint for the sample. Confirm the flat pattern includes all seam allowances, ease, and dart lines. Check the grading rules for each size. A two-centimeter difference in the chest ease can change the entire fit profile.

Mark the fit points on the sample. Chest, waist, hip, shoulder, sleeve length, and inseam are the primary control points. If the sample fits the body form but not the target size, the grading is off. If it fits the size but feels too tight, the ease is wrong.

Red flag: The factory grades by eye instead of using a grading table. This often leads to inconsistent proportions across sizes. The sample may look good in a single size but fail in the extended sizes.

Review Construction and Stitching Specifications

Stitching details are where many production errors hide. Confirm the stitch type, stitch length, and needle size for each seam. A flatlock seam and a lockstitch seam behave differently under tension. A longer stitch length may be acceptable on a straight seam but may pucker on a curved one.

Check the seam allowances. A 1.5 centimeter seam allowance is standard for many styles, but a 1 centimeter allowance changes the finished width. If the tech pack specifies a French seam or a bound seam, verify the factory can execute it at the required quality level.

Red flag: The factory uses a different stitch length to compensate for a fabric issue. If the stitch length changes, the seam may look uneven. If the factory changes the needle size, the hole size may differ. Log any deviation and decide if it is acceptable.

Check Hardware, Labels, and Packaging

Hardware is a high-failure area. Buttons, snaps, and rivets need a spec for size, material, and finish. A brass snap and a nickel snap have different durability. A matte finish and a glossy finish can look different under production lighting.

Verify the label placement and content. Care labels, size labels, and brand labels all have placement rules. If the size label is placed on the inside back neck, it should not interfere with the collar seam. If the care label is sewn into the side seam, it should not create a ridge when the garment is laid flat.

Packaging details matter for the final delivery. Confirm the polybag size, the hanger type, and the fold instructions. A garment that looks good on the hanger may arrive creased if the polybag is too small.

Check Item	Common Error	Fix
Tech pack notes	Contradicts artwork	Update notes to match artwork
Fabric lot	Different composition than spec	Request correct lot before cut
Seam allowance	Too narrow for finished width	Adjust pattern before cutting
Stitch length	Too long for curved seams	Reduce length to 2.5 mm
Button shank	Too long for placket	Shorten shank or replace button

Standardize the Sample Review Process

Use a structured sample checklist to review each sample. Do not rely on memory. A written checklist ensures every item is checked in the same order. This reduces the chance of missing a small detail that will cause a problem in production.

The checklist should cover fit, construction, trim, and documentation. Assign a score to each item. A pass means the item meets the spec. A fail means the item needs correction. A note means the item is acceptable but should be monitored in production.

Red flag: The sample is approved with verbal comments only. If the factory does not receive written instructions, the next sample may repeat the same errors. Always send a written correction list with the sample return.

Log Corrections and Confirm Understanding

When you send a sample back for revision, list every correction in writing. Use specific language. Instead of saying “fix the sleeve,” say “reduce the sleeve head by 0.5 cm and move the seam 1 cm outward.” Specific language reduces the chance of misinterpretation.

Confirm the factory understands the changes. Ask them to repeat the corrections back or to send a revised tech pack that includes the changes. This step creates a shared reference point. It also protects both parties if there is a dispute later.

Red flag: The factory makes the changes but does not document them. If the next sample looks different from the approved sample, you have no record of what changed. Always require a written log of all corrections.

Prepare for Production Readiness

The final sample is the reference for mass production. Confirm that the production materials match the sample materials. If the sample uses a different lot of fabric than the production plan, the color or hand feel may differ. Approve a production fabric swatch before the factory cuts the first production piece.

Verify the production schedule. The sample should not be the only gate. If the sample is approved but the production materials are not ready, the line will stop. Confirm that the factory has the trims, the labels, and the packaging on hand before the production run begins.

Red flag: The factory uses the sample fabric for production. Sample fabric is often a small lot. It may run out or have a color shift. Always use production-approved fabric for the mass build.